Home Again
We've been back in New Zealand for a few weeks now, although it seems like an age since we were packing up our bicycles in Frankfurt. We have spent the last few weeks catching up with friends and family, preparing for our move to Blenheim and soaking up good old New Zealand. With the benefit of some time for reflection we decided it was time to finish our blog. What better way of summing up our adventure for the Buzzfeed generation than a series of lists?
Our top two highest passes in one day and our highest vertical metres climbed (2400m). Although it was one of the physically hardest days of cycling, the heart of the Swiss Alps was so captivating that it seemed much easier than it should have. From Innertkirchen to Andermatt we crossed from the watershed of the Aare River, which eventually flows into the Rhine and to the North Sea, to the watershed of the Rhone, which flows into the Mediterranean Sea, and then back over to the watershed of the Aare. I think if you had asked both of us before we left New Zealand whether we could physically complete a day like this, we would have both been doubtful. To cycle a road like this, and without any major dramas shows just how far our cycling fitness and endurance has come.
2. Ainsa to Broto in the Pyrenees (via Escalona and Fanlo)
Quiet and forgotten backroads through mountainous canyons in the foothills of the Pyrenees - cycling heaven. Many of the days through the Spanish Pyrenees could have easily made this list; the hard earned carefree cruise down the other side of a mountain pass is a feeling we will never forget.
3. Arriving in Marseilles
The French Riviera continually surprised us with it's range of natural beauty; but this day was a standout. The cliff-top switchbacks of the Corniche des Crêtes road brought us to dizzying heights above the Mediterranean and the Parc des Calanques provided a grand entry into Marseilles. Definitely a place to come back to; we didn't get time to visit the port town of Cassis on the way, and apparently there's great rockclimbing in the Calanques.
1. Sarah's crash
Public transport in Europe is awesome, but one of the negative side-effects for cyclists is the train and tram tracks everywhere. Sarah got caught out by some of these tracks in Belgium and hit the deck so hard I was sure she must have broken an arm or collarbone. She was lucky to get away with just a badly bruised knee. She was cycling again the next day but the knee is still causing her grief at times.
2. Rain in Bavaria
Five days in a row of rain in southern Germany while cycling the Bodensee-Konigsee route tested us. Everything got damp and muddy and a couple of days we got seriously cold. On the plus side we got to stay in a few quirky guesthouses and the fog and low cloud hanging in the mountains was rather enchanting.
With the ingredients and method of cooking strictly controlled by the 'Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana' this could well be the best pizza we'll ever eat. It should be at the top of your 'to do' list if you ever visit southern Italy. In fact, this pizza alone may just be reason enough to visit Italy....
2. Pintxos in San Sebastian
Pintxos are the Basque version of Spanish tapas and pintxo culture is strongest in San Sebastian. For Sarah's birthday we went on a tour of several of the best pintxo bars in town, learnt about the classic pintxos and drank Basque cider. We had a great group of Irish and Australian travellers and had a fun time meeting new people and exploring a new city and cuisine. A great way to celebrate getting yet another year older!
3. French dinner with the Vidonis
We were lucky enough to stay a night with the family of a friend of ours, Audrey. The dinner was amazing - we lost count of the number of courses but there were French cheeses, wines and sausage along with meat and vegetable dishes, fruits, and dessert. Luckily we had a a big day of cycling planned the next day to burn away all those calories!
Honourable mentions: French pastries and baugettes, paella in Barcelona and lunch at a Basque Txoko (food club).
1. The Rhine Route
We followed the Rhine for 600km from somewhere in Holland to Mannheim, linked up with it again near Basel for around 40km, and lastly cycled the first 150km or so from the source of the river to the Bodensee. The range of landscapes along the river is fantastic; from the cute villages of the Alpine Rhine in Switzerland to the enormous industrial parks in Germany, not to mention the castles and vineyards of the `Romantic Rhine`.
2. Eurovelo 1 from Spain to the Loire River
The full Eurovelo 1 trail, the 'Atlantic Coast Route', stretches from the south of Portugal all the way to the north of Norway. We only cycled 850km of the trail in France, and, like the Rhine Route, the range of attractions along the way made it a great route. The route is really well sign-posted and largely on off-road trails. Highlights included Europe's biggest sand dune - the Dune du Pyla - and the very cool medieval city of La Rochelle.
3. Berner Oberland Route - Stage 2 from Interlaken to Innertkirchen
Cycling under the infamous north wall of the Eiger was one of the highlights of our entire trip. The climb up Grosse Scheidegg was relentless but the rewards were great. Tourists at the top stared in disbelief that anyone would be so stupid as to cycle up there with all that gear, but we got nods of respect from the road cyclists zooming past at twice our speed.
The cathedral in Ulm might be the tallest, and the Sagrada Familia might have taken out this prize had it been finished, but both Sarah and I found the Siena Duomo in Italy the most memorable church. Incredibly striking zebra stripes inside and out, gleaming gold facades, and the most ornate mosaic floors in Italy make this church stand out among the hundreds we passed on our trip.
Some final statistics
Things we lost count of
Best days of Cycling
1. Grimsel and Furka PassesOur top two highest passes in one day and our highest vertical metres climbed (2400m). Although it was one of the physically hardest days of cycling, the heart of the Swiss Alps was so captivating that it seemed much easier than it should have. From Innertkirchen to Andermatt we crossed from the watershed of the Aare River, which eventually flows into the Rhine and to the North Sea, to the watershed of the Rhone, which flows into the Mediterranean Sea, and then back over to the watershed of the Aare. I think if you had asked both of us before we left New Zealand whether we could physically complete a day like this, we would have both been doubtful. To cycle a road like this, and without any major dramas shows just how far our cycling fitness and endurance has come.
 |
| Furka Pass viewed from Grimsel Pass |
Quiet and forgotten backroads through mountainous canyons in the foothills of the Pyrenees - cycling heaven. Many of the days through the Spanish Pyrenees could have easily made this list; the hard earned carefree cruise down the other side of a mountain pass is a feeling we will never forget.
 |
The French Riviera continually surprised us with it's range of natural beauty; but this day was a standout. The cliff-top switchbacks of the Corniche des Crêtes road brought us to dizzying heights above the Mediterranean and the Parc des Calanques provided a grand entry into Marseilles. Definitely a place to come back to; we didn't get time to visit the port town of Cassis on the way, and apparently there's great rockclimbing in the Calanques.
 |
| Parc des Calanques viewed from the Corniche des Crêtes |
Worst Days
We didn't really have that many bad days, and I think we were still smiling even at the end of these ones!1. Sarah's crash
Public transport in Europe is awesome, but one of the negative side-effects for cyclists is the train and tram tracks everywhere. Sarah got caught out by some of these tracks in Belgium and hit the deck so hard I was sure she must have broken an arm or collarbone. She was lucky to get away with just a badly bruised knee. She was cycling again the next day but the knee is still causing her grief at times.
2. Rain in Bavaria
Five days in a row of rain in southern Germany while cycling the Bodensee-Konigsee route tested us. Everything got damp and muddy and a couple of days we got seriously cold. On the plus side we got to stay in a few quirky guesthouses and the fog and low cloud hanging in the mountains was rather enchanting.
 |
| Still smiles |
3. We actually can't think of another bad day we had. This might be nostalgia kicking in, but we really did have a pretty awesome trip.
Best Food
1. Pizza in NaplesWith the ingredients and method of cooking strictly controlled by the 'Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana' this could well be the best pizza we'll ever eat. It should be at the top of your 'to do' list if you ever visit southern Italy. In fact, this pizza alone may just be reason enough to visit Italy....
 |
| Naples-style calzone we had in Florence |
2. Pintxos in San Sebastian
Pintxos are the Basque version of Spanish tapas and pintxo culture is strongest in San Sebastian. For Sarah's birthday we went on a tour of several of the best pintxo bars in town, learnt about the classic pintxos and drank Basque cider. We had a great group of Irish and Australian travellers and had a fun time meeting new people and exploring a new city and cuisine. A great way to celebrate getting yet another year older!
 |
| Pintxos bar in San Sebastian's old town |
We were lucky enough to stay a night with the family of a friend of ours, Audrey. The dinner was amazing - we lost count of the number of courses but there were French cheeses, wines and sausage along with meat and vegetable dishes, fruits, and dessert. Luckily we had a a big day of cycling planned the next day to burn away all those calories!
Honourable mentions: French pastries and baugettes, paella in Barcelona and lunch at a Basque Txoko (food club).
Best Marked Cycle Routes
We didn't actually fully complete any marked cycle routes - but much of our trip consisted of linking trails together to get where we wanted. We've picked what we thought were the best routes from what we experienced of them.1. The Rhine Route
We followed the Rhine for 600km from somewhere in Holland to Mannheim, linked up with it again near Basel for around 40km, and lastly cycled the first 150km or so from the source of the river to the Bodensee. The range of landscapes along the river is fantastic; from the cute villages of the Alpine Rhine in Switzerland to the enormous industrial parks in Germany, not to mention the castles and vineyards of the `Romantic Rhine`.
 |
| Vineyards on the Romantic Rhine section |
2. Eurovelo 1 from Spain to the Loire River
The full Eurovelo 1 trail, the 'Atlantic Coast Route', stretches from the south of Portugal all the way to the north of Norway. We only cycled 850km of the trail in France, and, like the Rhine Route, the range of attractions along the way made it a great route. The route is really well sign-posted and largely on off-road trails. Highlights included Europe's biggest sand dune - the Dune du Pyla - and the very cool medieval city of La Rochelle.
3. Berner Oberland Route - Stage 2 from Interlaken to Innertkirchen
Cycling under the infamous north wall of the Eiger was one of the highlights of our entire trip. The climb up Grosse Scheidegg was relentless but the rewards were great. Tourists at the top stared in disbelief that anyone would be so stupid as to cycle up there with all that gear, but we got nods of respect from the road cyclists zooming past at twice our speed.
 |
| Sarah climbing the 1000m out of Grindelwald towards Grosse Scheidegg with the Eiger hulking behind |
Best Church
The cathedral in Ulm might be the tallest, and the Sagrada Familia might have taken out this prize had it been finished, but both Sarah and I found the Siena Duomo in Italy the most memorable church. Incredibly striking zebra stripes inside and out, gleaming gold facades, and the most ornate mosaic floors in Italy make this church stand out among the hundreds we passed on our trip. |
| Siena Duomo |
Some final statistics
- 100 nights in a tent, $300 tent = $3 night
- 47 nights at Airbnbs
- 3 flat tyres
- 11 countries (including Monaco, Lichenstein, and the Vatican City)
- 12 border crossings, no passport checks (not including Monaco, Lichenstein, and the Vatican City)
- 8057 kilometres cycled
- 1 run-in with the police
- 3 broken tent poles
- 7 kilos of excess baggage on our flight home (that one hurt!)
Things we lost count of
- Litres of sunscreen used
- Baguettes eaten
- Kilograms of salted peanuts consumed by Dave
- Wi-fi networks connected to
- Coffee stops
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There is too much to say in one blog to describe what an awesome adventure we have had over the past six and a half months. We get asked a lot about how our relationship fared and whether we are sick of the sight of each other. Although we bickered often (usually after a tough day), we didn't have any major arguments and are quite content in each other's company. We set off without much idea about cycle touring, and finished our trip raving about cycling as a form of travel. We got to see so much stuff we wouldn't have seen otherwise, it's a economical way to travel and we challenged ourselves physically. We would be happy to help out anybody considering cycle touring, all you need to do is ask. Europe was spectacular, each country a different flavour, with so much history and different cultures to experience and foods to eat. Despite this, nowhere could quite live up to New Zealand standards and we feel incredibly grateful to call this country home. Although we are both hanging out to set up house again and sleep in our own bed, we look forward to next time we can go on a cycling adventure. Ciao!
- David & Sarah
- David & Sarah
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